We tend to associate a sun-kissed glow with healthy skin, but it may not always be that simple. Sometimes healthy skin is protected skin that has been sheltered from the elements for the ultimate in health and beauty. Making decisions about skincare can sometimes seem overwhelming because our individual needs differ based on genetics, geography, and environmental. As the seasons change, we benefit from changing up our skin care routine to cultivate balance. The focus of summertime protection shifts from applying emulsifying moisturizers to combat the dryness common in colder months to preventing and managing the damage from the strong ultraviolet (UV) sun rays. In general, Summer is the energetic season of the pitta dosha, or the fire element. Increased pitta can lead to increased skin sensitivity and sebaceous secretions. In addition, the solar radiation is the single most damaging factor in cell degeneration and breakdown of collagen and elastin, which are related to premature aging. Excess sun exposure is also the leading cause of skin cancer and hyperpigmentation. Thus, understanding and implementing proper sun care is necessary to maintain healthy youthful skin.
A full skin care regimen does require a little time in the sun: 15 minutes of daily exposure is necessary to obtain an adequate dose of Vitamin D (a coenzyme vital for mineralization of bones and teeth). Yet we can have too much of a good thing. When UV rays penetrate the dermis layer, they can damage the delicate collagen and elastin fibers. So for everyday use and casual sun exposure, apply sunscreen on the sensitive areas of the face, neck, and chest. Stay active in the sun (run errands, take a walk) and try to avoid direct exposure in the peak hours between 10am and 2pm (except for those magic Vitamin D minutes). If you do sunbathe, note that sesame and neem oils have some natural sunscreen properties, while coconut and olive oils are natural tan-promoting agents.
Look for protection from natural sunscreens; these fall into two categories: mineral and chemical. Minerals create a physical barrier against UV rays, reflecting them away from the skin. Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide fall into this category, and even the Academy of Pediatrics recommends these ingredients as the best options for babies’ safety. They sit on the skin’s surface like a shield, and generally y do not need to be reapplied to maintain effectiveness. You can combine them with other natural moisturizers.
The second type of sunscreen is the group of chemicals that absorb and neutralize UV rays in the tissues. Many sunscreen agents have high absorption rates and are even toxic, such as: Oxybenzone, Oxtinoxate, Octyl methoxycinnamate, Benzophenone-3, Octisalate, or Homosalate (HMS). They can act as irritants, allergens, hormone disruptors, or carcinogens.
While sunscreen use has increased in the United States, so has skin cancer. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), only one out of 10 commercial sunscreens is considered safe, and three out of five do not adequately protect the skin from the sun. In other words, 90% are toxic and 60% don’t work. Clearly something is wrong. Research has shown that the use of certain sunscreens increased both the risk of skin cancer as well as Vitamin D deficiency (EWG 2010). And according to this research, an astounding 87% of Americans are Vitamin D deficient, so the secret to adequate skin care may require some finessing.
Much of the information disseminated about the sun is actually misinformation. To bring light to the issue, there are two primary types of potentially harmful UV rays: UVA, active throughout the year; and UVB, which predominate in the Summer. The more abundant UVA rays penetrate more deeply into the skin. The UVB rays that are healthy in small doses have the bad rap of being responsible for sunburns. Often, an SPF rating measures only the UVB-blocking power of sunscreens; and even though the sunscreen may prevent a burn, the strong skin cancer-promoting UVA rays are still reaching your skin. The remedy: Be sure your sunscreen blocks both UVA and UVB rays.
Another misconception when interpreting labels is the higher the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the better. Unfortunately, the higher the SPF number, the more toxic the product may become because of the chemical composition. The Environmental Workgroup Group asks consumers to read ingredients, avoid anything over 50, and choose carefully. Take note that the SPF only describes how long the sunscreen remains active. Here’s the math: Start with the amount of time it takes your skin to burn and multiply it by the SPF number to discern the length of sun protection. For example, if it takes five minutes to burn without sunscreen, slathering the skin with an SPF 15 labeled product will likely extend the no-burn time to 75 minutes (15×5). Keep an eye on the clock, as chemical sunscreens must be reapplied since the chemical ingredients become inactive over time.
For healthy sun exposure and protection, first cultivate balance for your Summer skin (see sidebar) and then use a safe natural block when needed. While sun damage can fade and burns can heal, skin cells are permanently affected. People with the most beautiful skin are those who have been forward-thinking enough to focus on prevention. Listen to your body and care enough about yourself to be proactive and plan ahead.
Summer Skin Balancing Suggestions
1. Stay Hydrated.
Drink plenty of fluids to counteract evaporation of water from the skin. Castle Rock Spring Water won the Gold Medal for best tasting bottled water in the 2014 Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting.
2. Cool as a Coconut.
Cooling coconut comes to the rescue with refreshing water and moisturizing oils. Try Harvest Bay Coconut Water and oils by Nutiva.
3. Limit Drying Drinks.
Caffeinated drinks may look thirst-quenching, but the caffeine actually dehydrates the body. Alcoholic drinks are even more dehydrating.
4. Hydrate with Food.
Ripe Summer fruits such as peaches, nectarines, plums, and pears are exactly what your skin craves for cooling and hydrating in the summer. Don’t have time to shop? Order seasonal fruits and vegetables delivered to your front door from Farm Box LA or Farm Fresh to You.
5. Mist and Spritz.
Try spritzing your face with mists made from organic rose water, sandalwood, or lavender mixed with water to reduce fiery pitta, cool, tone, and hydrate. Try KORA Organics’ Energising Citrus Mist by Miranda Kerr with bergamot, orange, mandarin, aloe vera, sandalwood and noni extract.
6. Go Chemical-Free.
Read labels carefully to choose cleansing and hydrating facial products free of harsh chemicals that dry out your skin. Beware because chemical deodorants, soaps, and perfumes can make you more prone to sunburn. Check out the Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep® Cosmetics Database.
Soothe a Burn…Naturally
The best way to take care of the skin is to avoid sunburns, but if you were caught unaware, Ayurveda offers cooling natural remedies:
1. Aloe Vera Gel.
The most effective method is gel from the fresh leaf. Second-best is commercially bottled gel—the most natural you can find. Apply directly to the skin. Aloe is an instant cooling agent that soothes and repairs damaged skin and heat rashes. Keep on-hand some shelf-stable aloe vera gel from Mountain Rose Herbs.
2. Apply Ice Intermittently.
Caution: Don’t leave ice touching your skin for more than a minute or two without a break.
3. Got milk?
Dip a gauze pad into cold cow’s milk or buttermilk and apply it directly to the sunburn. No milk? Use a soft cloth dipped in cool water.
4. Post Picnic.
Rub the fleshy part of watermelon rind on the skin.
5. Get Pasty.
Combine equal amounts of powdered sandalwood and turmeric and create a paste with cool water, coconut water, rose water, or cucumber juice. Turmeric can stain, so be careful.
6. Cool as a Cucumber.
This soothing vegetable really works.
7. A Rose by Any Other Name.
Rosewater calms cranky skin. Jurlique packages a balancing mist with antioxidant hydration.
